Our short spontaneous trip to the Baltics required us to choose between Estonia and Lithuania. After flying into Latvia, we had to decide, should we go North, or should we go South? With a flip of a coin (and the hopes that going south would be slightly warmer in the late Winter…), we chose Lithuania. And after a short drive through the pretty countryside, we found our way to Villinus, a beautiful oldtown city with a rich history of persistence and strength.
The Baltics suffered greatly during World War II. This was our first experience learning the history of the horrible reign of Stalin. As we walked around the city with a wonderful tour guide, we started to feel the pain the city has gone through. Once again, we were hit with a dose of harsh reality that our world’s history isn’t that beautiful.
But this city has a way of shining through that harsh reality with a strong sense of pride, beauty, and humor. Fun, goofy, hidden treasures could be found all over the streets in Old Town.
And nothing encompasses the city’s culture more than the small country inside the city, The Republic of Uzupis. That’s right, another country. With its own constitution, government, and even passport stamp!
Ok, so it is not really a country. The Republic of Uzupis is the art district of Villinus that pretends to be its own country, kind of like the city’s little inside joke. In fact, it started as an April Fool’s Day joke! However, the art here is really nothing to joke about. Before we crossed the border into this fictional country, we were greeted with some rules, the most important one being to smile at all times. We visited the local post office and got a passport stamp on a postcard (since it is actually against the real law to stamp your real passport with a fake country stamp). Then we stopped to read the constitution written on a wall in multiple different languages. Our tour guide filled us in on all the weird traditions including the election process for random ministries. Her friend was elected the Minister of Frisbee!
Our decision to drive South through Lithuania proved to be a good call. The country captured our hearts with its story of strength to endure a horrific past while embracing its eclectic future.
Why did we choose the Baltics? To this day, I can’t really answer that. It was perhaps one of the most spontaneous trips we have taken. One day while scrolling through my endless email of spam promotions, a deal from Scott’s Cheap Flights caught my eye for tickets to the Baltics for $500. After a few back and forth texts with Jason, we had tickets to Riga for that upcoming March. And that’s really as much to that story as there is, a little glimpse into the decision making process of the Hills family.
We quickly learned that booking on a whim has its regrets. We chose a horrible time of the year to go, right at the end of winter but still too cold to be spring. And we quickly realized, we know nothing about these little countries nestled up so close to Russia. What would we see? Would it be worth the nightmare of three flights to get there? Could my second trimester pregnant body handle it? Was this a horrible mistake? Knowing it was too late and our tickets were locked in, we packed our bags for cold weather and headed up north regardless. We were quickly reminded that no trip in this wondrous world is a waste of our time.
We landed in Riga on the day a snowstorm came in, just in time for Little E to see the countryside dusted with fresh beautiful snow. This was his first time to really experience snow, which is such a foreign phenomenon to our little Texan. Seeing his face as he stuck out his tongue to catch the tiny snowflakes was worth the trip alone.
We spent our first day driving around the Latvian countryside in awe of the snow kissed landscape. We stopped in Sigulda, Latvia’s adventure capital. We drove over the bridge famous for naked bungee jumping. Jason felt lucky it was out of season as he knew that he would have been coerced by me to join in on the fun. We found the Gutmanis Cave covered in carvings as old as the 17th century. We were the only people walking about the national park that day. But that didn’t stop one vendor from finding us and selling us some amazing delicious treats.
Eventually our drive took us to our first castle in Cesis, an 800 year old Medieval beauty. As we walked up the endless steep twirling steps, I started to realize this would be our last trip as a family of three. The next endless twirling steps we took, I’d have a new baby strapped to my chest. I felt my heart fill with joy.
We spent the night in a tiny cottage tucked away in the woods. We were the only guests. The owners were so happy to see us that they cooked us locally caught trout as their son played with Ethan in the dining area. The children couldn’t speak each other’s language but that didn’t stop them from becoming friends quickly. Time seemed to stand still in this little beautiful town. I could have stayed there much longer soaking in the cold air and enjoying the days with my beautiful family. Yet, in typical Hills fashion, we drove on to pack in much as possible.
I quickly noticed that my architecture loving heart was in for a treat as we drove with more clear weather the next day. Of course my eye caught the beautiful Russian Orthodox Church domes found throughout our trip. And we begin to read more about the sad history of Russian influence over these countries. We knew there would be a lot to learn about this history as we continued our journey.
We stumbled upon a beautiful Baroque 18th century palace seemingly in the middle of nowhere. Rundale Palace must be a tourist hot spot when the weather is nice. But on this cold winter day, we had the palace to ourselves roaming room to room in awe of the ornate interior design.
Once again, I found myself hit with a wave of love for this wandering family Jason and I have created. The little baby inside me kicked my belly as a reminder he was now part of that family. I whelped up with joy. For these experiences would mean nothing if I didn’t have these beautiful people to share them with.
During a quick stop in Casablanca, we met back up with our friends Jill and Adam. I really have no pictures to show of Casablanca as the only thing we did there was visit the famous bar, Rick’s Cafe, while citing lines from the movie “Casablanca”. There wasn’t much to stay for. So, with a “Here’s looking at you kid.”, we drove off to Marrakesh and met up with a local friend, Hicham.
Hicham was actually the identical twin brother of a co-worker of Jason’s. He was super excited to meet us and show us his city. He met us at our Riad quickly after we arrived. Just like in Fes, we were greeted by the Riad owner with extreme hospitality. There was tea, wine, and olives waiting for us. Ethan loved the courtyard that came fully equipped with a small pool and a pet turtle.
He actually loved it so much that he fell into the pool, nearly giving this mama a heart attack. We both quickly recovered from the drama though, and Hicham was ready to start our tour of the Medina.
For our first stop we really wanted some food. Hicham took us to the very popular Jemaa el-Fnaa square.
The square is famous for its tourist attractions of snake charmers, story tellers, dancers, and magicians. I was terrified of the snake charmers. So, I treaded carefully keeping my distance from the cobras as much as possible. The most interesting thing we actually saw was the juice stands. There were a dozen lined up in the square, all looking exactly the same. To get your attention, the juicers would yell at you to come try their specialty. If you started walking close to one, the others would start a playful banter, “No! No! Their juice is awful, come here instead!”. They were seriously all exactly the same, but the back and forth yelling made for good afternoon entertainment. When we finally chose a stand, the juicers were so happy that they let the guys come up into the stand for a fun photo op.
Once we felt nice and refreshed from our delicious juice, Hicham walked us a traditional Moroccan restaurant for lunch. I had been wanting to try traditional tagine. It did not disappoint. Jill noticed one spice she didn’t like at all. Hicham promised to take us a spice shop in the medina to try to identify the name. Then she would know exactly what to stay clear of in the future.
After lunch, we got the full tour of the Medina. Just like in Fes, we saw the multiple different disciplines in the Medina: metal, wood, weaving, dying… it was once again quite overwhelming. However, compared to Fes, this medina was much more spacious and yet packed with tourists. Therefore, everything looked a little newer, a little brighter, and a little more progressive.
We also visited the Ben Youssef Madrasa, an old Islamic college known for the beautiful interior design which boasts a multi-sensory experience.
Hicham owns his very own antique shop inside the Medina. It was an extremely impressive shop, not filled with the typical tourist doodads. Instead, we were surrounded by extremely old pieces of ceramics and tea pots. Hicham gave each of us a gift from his shop. I got a beautiful silver teapot and Ethan got a leather camel. We also bought a few very old antiques to take home. The shop was so packed with beautiful things, that taking photos in the dark room was difficult.
As promised, Hicham also took Jill to a spice shop, where she found that the spice she didn’t like was indeed fennel. She also found some essential oils at an amazing price.
After a very busy day exploring the Medina, Hicham took us to a pool club for dinner. The club was as over the top as you would expect from a pool club, loaded with a red carpet entrance and a no camera policy. I was a little worried they wouldn’t let E in, but we were there early in the day. The place was empty and the staff was excited to have a kid to play with. The waiters kept taking E off to dip his feet in the pool. We relaxed with pizza and hookah while Ethan danced on the empty dance floor.
For the next day, Hicham took us to a resort where we walked beautiful gardens, got fresh made bread, and relaxed in gorgeous courtyards.
Afterwards, Hicham invited us to his house for lunch. He had made us a slow cooked lamb in a clay pot. It was similar to someone in Texas making their guests brisket. We felt honored. His wife had prepared a full table of sides for us. They had a son that was Ethan’s age. It was a wonderful lunch and great insight to local life.
We have been fortunate enough to have local friends show us around countries many times now. I give credit to Jason for being so friendly with everyone he meets. He is always connecting with people that are ready to show us a piece of their world. I love it. Great sites, great food, and great friends. Morocco may have been a big culture shift from what we are used to. But seeing the differences only broadened our perspective of this massive world, leaving us thirsty to see and learn so much more.
Out of all the ways we have transported in our travels, renting a car and driving cross country is still my favorite. Jason would disagree mainly because he is always the one driving. To be fair, it is stressful figuring out how to drive in a country that allows donkeys on the freeway. Nevertheless, I can’t help but to love seeing the country side up close and getting the flexibility to stop wherever and whenever we want. That is exactly what brought us to Volubilis during our drive from Fes to Casablanca.
Volubilis was once the capital city of the kingdom of Mauretania in 25 BC. It was built by Cleopatra Selene II, THE Cleopatra’s very own daughter. Not a lot remains, but there is enough to be amazed. Large pillars, arches, and some very intact mosaics fill the site. The surrounding hills are dotted with olive trees, the same crop that made the city wealthy in the first place.
Walking the open grounds was a nice contrast to the previous day’s corn maze through the Fes Medina. Little E had the opportunity to run through the open space. Somehow, he still preferred for his mama to carry him though. Seeing that the site wasn’t exactly stroller friendly, that’s exactly what I did… lug a 35 lb two year old up and down over 2000 year old stairs.
Warm sunshine, beautiful scenery, and historic ruins… what more could we ask for? Well lunch would have been nice. But we soon learned that finding somewhere to eat as a family was going to be a challenge. Most restaurants didn’t look too inviting towards a mom and toddler. But alas, we saw those golden arches during our drive and have never been happier. That was the best McDonald’s sandwich I had ever eaten.
Moral of the story: driving cross country may give you experiences you otherwise would have never stumbled across. It is more work, especially for the person driving. But what you gain is flexibility to really explore and experience the country in a more personal way.
We weren’t quite sure what to expect from Morocco, but as soon as we arrived in Fes, we knew we were up for something special. Even the airport was covered in beautiful tiles, fountains, and lamps.
I had read enough to know that we might have a hard time finding our Riad, or what we would refer to as a bed and breakfast here in the States. So, we had a driver pick us up at the airport and escort us through the Medina to our room. And thank god we did. There was no way we were finding that place on our own. For one thing, you can’t just drive up to the front door and ask for valet. Instead, our driver got us as close as the narrow streets would allow. Then we followed the bell hop through the tiny alleys taking about a million turns and wondering if the stroller we bought would hold up in these conditions.
Once we found the Riad, we were relieved to find hot tea and cookies waiting for us. Our Riad owner took the time to tell us all about the city. We asked him if he could find us a guide. After the trek to the Riad we knew we couldn’t navigate the Medina alone. He set us up with a historian and promised we would be able to find some lunch along the tour.
Our historian tour guide soon met us at the Riad after we had time to freshen up. For our first stop, he took us into a carpet shop to see the beautiful rugs that the country had to offer. The shop owner fed us camel sandwiches while giving us a history lesson on rug making in Morocco. They pulled out rug after rug hoping one would catch our eye, and we would take it home. But our wallets weren’t that thick. After lunch we politely declined the purchase of a rug. I expected a more aggressive sell, but the shop owner was very courteous. I think they just enjoyed our company, especially Ethan’s. He covered Ethan’s head in kisses, a strange gesture to us Americans but very normal in Morocco, and let him run around the shop trampling all over the expensive rugs. Ethan even got a magic carpet ride!
After our lunch, the Historian dragged us from section to section of the large Medina, showing us how everything in Morocco was made. We saw the linens section, the wood section, the tiles section, the metal works section, and perhaps my favorite, the leather section.
Fes is home of the world’s oldest tannery, the Chouara Tannery. Seeing the leathers being dyed up on the roof was quite an experience. I’ll never forget the smell! Although the shop owners weren’t aggressive, there was an obvious unspoken expectation that you buy something after getting the shop tours. We left the tannery with a pair of beautiful ottomans.
Of course the Historian wouldn’t let us miss the oldest continuously operating college in the world, University of Al Quaraouiyine, even if we couldn’t go inside. We saw the beautiful entrances into the college throughout the Medina. And a quick drive outside of the Medina brought us to the King’s Palace where I was directed to only point my camera in one direction and stand exactly were we were told.
The Historian filled our heads with all kinds of knowledge that I quickly forgot that night. But I do remember that every shape and every color in the numerous tiles we saw had a specific meaning.
The beauty of the city was quite perplexing. The interior design was always over the top, filled to the brim with intricate details. But the exterior quickly reminded us that we were in a third world country with such labor intensive work and widespread poverty that we quickly felt humbled. Of course, anytime you visit something as old as 8th century, you’re bound to see some wear and tear. And you’re bound to be amazed. We left Fes in awe. In awe of the history, in awe of the beauty, and in awe of the intensity of the day to day life in the packed tiny alleys.
Those who have heard of Andorra are probably wondering why we would visit the tiny country outside of ski season. Those who haven’t are probably wondering why we would visit at all. We really don’t have a good excuse other than it was an interesting stop on our drive from Pamplona to Barcelona that would help us add another country to our list. And what a beautiful drive it was.
For our first drive from Barcelona to Pamplona, we took the highway, which did nothing more then provide sights that made us think we were in Arizona and cost us nearly $100 in tolls . But for our second trip from Pamplona back to Barcelona, we hugged the French/Spanish border leaving us with breathtaking views, scary cliff edged roads, and a heightened sense of adventure. We even found time to stop for lunch one afternoon in Spain and one afternoon in France giving us a unique opportunity to explore some small country villages while singing Beauty and Beast’s soundtrack on repeat.
Andorra may have been just another click in our country count. However, it was definitely a click worth making. This tiny country may be tucked between the French and Spanish border, but it has a unique charm of its own. The best word I can find to describe Andorra La Vella is Eclectic.
Down one alley, we came across statues of men perched in the fetal position high above our heads. Down another, was a store dedicated only to 1980’s American fashion perfect for that Saved by the Bell look. And yet another, the most hipster bar I’ve ever come across donned with swings for seats, suspender-ed bearded bartenders, and of course a really old telephone. And you can’t get more eclectic then having dinner in a Valentines Day themed restaurant while listening to Michael Buble Christmas music. Everything was weird. Yet, everything was overwhelmingly charming.
Being nestled in the Pyrenees Mountains meant a lot of walking and a lot of stairs. Some very nice locals finally clued us in to the hidden elevators throughout the city making our exploration a little easier. I had to take advantage of the perfect alleys for an impromptu photo-shoot of Little E.
In the heart of the city we got the perfect representation of the city’s soul. Salvador Dali’s “the Nobility of Time” sits proudly in the center of town back-dropped with a modern cable-stayed bridge spanning the Gran Valira River.
Hanging on the bridge for all to see is the town name in bright circus lights reminding the city that it is unique. It is special, not belonging to the Spanish and not belonging to the French. Only belonging to the Andorrans. It is Andorra.
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