We weren’t quite sure what to expect from Morocco, but as soon as we arrived in Fes, we knew we were up for something special. Even the airport was covered in beautiful tiles, fountains, and lamps.
I had read enough to know that we might have a hard time finding our Riad, or what we would refer to as a bed and breakfast here in the States. So, we had a driver pick us up at the airport and escort us through the Medina to our room. And thank god we did. There was no way we were finding that place on our own. For one thing, you can’t just drive up to the front door and ask for valet. Instead, our driver got us as close as the narrow streets would allow. Then we followed the bell hop through the tiny alleys taking about a million turns and wondering if the stroller we bought would hold up in these conditions.
Once we found the Riad, we were relieved to find hot tea and cookies waiting for us. Our Riad owner took the time to tell us all about the city. We asked him if he could find us a guide. After the trek to the Riad we knew we couldn’t navigate the Medina alone. He set us up with a historian and promised we would be able to find some lunch along the tour.
Our historian tour guide soon met us at the Riad after we had time to freshen up. For our first stop, he took us into a carpet shop to see the beautiful rugs that the country had to offer. The shop owner fed us camel sandwiches while giving us a history lesson on rug making in Morocco. They pulled out rug after rug hoping one would catch our eye, and we would take it home. But our wallets weren’t that thick. After lunch we politely declined the purchase of a rug. I expected a more aggressive sell, but the shop owner was very courteous. I think they just enjoyed our company, especially Ethan’s. He covered Ethan’s head in kisses, a strange gesture to us Americans but very normal in Morocco, and let him run around the shop trampling all over the expensive rugs. Ethan even got a magic carpet ride!
After our lunch, the Historian dragged us from section to section of the large Medina, showing us how everything in Morocco was made. We saw the linens section, the wood section, the tiles section, the metal works section, and perhaps my favorite, the leather section.
Fes is home of the world’s oldest tannery, the Chouara Tannery. Seeing the leathers being dyed up on the roof was quite an experience. I’ll never forget the smell! Although the shop owners weren’t aggressive, there was an obvious unspoken expectation that you buy something after getting the shop tours. We left the tannery with a pair of beautiful ottomans.
Of course the Historian wouldn’t let us miss the oldest continuously operating college in the world, University of Al Quaraouiyine, even if we couldn’t go inside. We saw the beautiful entrances into the college throughout the Medina. And a quick drive outside of the Medina brought us to the King’s Palace where I was directed to only point my camera in one direction and stand exactly were we were told.
The Historian filled our heads with all kinds of knowledge that I quickly forgot that night. But I do remember that every shape and every color in the numerous tiles we saw had a specific meaning.
The beauty of the city was quite perplexing. The interior design was always over the top, filled to the brim with intricate details. But the exterior quickly reminded us that we were in a third world country with such labor intensive work and widespread poverty that we quickly felt humbled. Of course, anytime you visit something as old as 8th century, you’re bound to see some wear and tear. And you’re bound to be amazed. We left Fes in awe. In awe of the history, in awe of the beauty, and in awe of the intensity of the day to day life in the packed tiny alleys.
Until next time,
