Whenever we travel to somewhere new, we try to wrap up our experience of the city in one word. That word for Porto came easily… Marvelous.
The city was full of this buzzing feeling of magic, stemming from features like the bookstore rumored to inspire Harry Potter, the streets full of eclectic street art, and the walls covered with famous blue tiled murals. My favorite feature was the Douro riverside landscape views of the Ribeira, packed with colorful lego stacked houses. Jason’s favorite feature was the Gaia port wine cellars. And the boys? Well, they loved the gelato.
This family vacation was Little Evey’s first trip to Europe! He rocked the flight like a travel pro. But the jet lag did its thing and we experienced our first 2 year old meltdown of the trip at dinner that night. What I always find fascinating about Europeans is how considerate and accommodating they are of families in restaurants. I braced myself for the ugly stares, but they never came. We were given the space to work through the tantrum and finish our dinner without having to leave hungry.
Having that tantrum early in trip helped us set some parenting guardrails and curb our expectations. We decided then to not worry about what the boys ate for the rest of the trip. We wouldn’t stress over picky eating until we got back home. This was hard at times, but ultimately paid off and reduced the tantrums dramatically.
We had 10 full days to spend in Porto and the extended area. We never spend that much time in one city. So, we weren’t quite sure how to do it. We had no day by day plan… just a general sense of major things to see and do and a guide book by our side. It didn’t take us long to love this relaxed way of travel. With no agenda, we were free to stop in shops we would have never have stopped in, linger in cafes we would have never visited, and talk to strangers we would have never have talked to.
We only had one major planned event, and it started on our first morning with our tradition of getting a professional photoshoot through Localgraphers. I cannot recommend Localgraphers enough. We were paired with the local photographer, Max. He was great with the kids and our photos in the Ribeira district turned out wonderful.
With that one big planned event out of the way. We spent the rest of our time in Porto truly wandering the streets. We started our exploration with a river boat cruise where we learned about the City of Bridges. We were rewarded with perfect views of the riverfront colorful houses. We made up stories about our favorite houses and decided one of them was definitely haunted.
A lot of the trip turned out to be a rainy mess, but we’ve never let a little rain get us down. We had plenty of indoor spots to check out too. Little E (who is actually not so little anymore) and I decided to visit the famous Livraria Lello, the most beautiful bookstore in the world and rumored to have inspired the Harry Potter series. Accolades like that attract attention though. The line to get in the store wrapped well around the block even in the rain. We had bought a VIP pass that allowed us to walk right pass that line and go directly inside, worth every penny even with the death stares we got from the patrons wet on the sidewalk. However, it was still incredibly crowded inside and everyone wanted a photo of the main feature, the red double staircase. So, E and I found a few books to buy, and got out of the stuffy small space with very few photos to show.
The rain that day poured on. And so we took the kids to the World of Discoveries, a children’s museum focused on Portugal’s explorations. As a family that loves to explore, it seemed fitting. The kids loved the cheesy boat ride that slowly took us around the world. I was ecstatic to randomly find a quirky antique mall right next door. We strolled through the antique booths, spotting the most random second hand finds, and then stayed awhile in the mall’s coffee shop while playing backgammon and sipping hot chocolate next to the antique piano while everything softly glowed from the fireplace.
Turns out these small moments were more grander than seeing any major landmark or red double staircase.
Once the kids had their fun in the cutesy museum, we didn’t feel bad for dragging them along to our most anticipated event, the port wine cellars tour in Gaia across the river. After riding the aerial gondola directly over the mass expanse of wine cellars along the river, we trekked up the hill to Graham’s Lodge. We splurged on the VIP package which included a tour of the cellars and an exclusive tasting of ports in a the Vintage Room. The kids enjoyed the spooky tour in the cellars as they looked for hidden monsters. Jason and I enjoyed the Vintage Room decked out in leather armchairs, mahogany bookshelves, and old maps… a couple of cigars and it would have been perfect.
Our explorations continued over the next few days utilizing these fun travel cards. They really helped excite E as we walked through the city. Every single block we walked through had unique tiles and colors. We took our time on each street. We made stops in the city’s most beautiful churches exploring the creepy tombs below and climbing the high towers above.
All this walking made us hungry of course. We explored circus themed sardine shops full of all things fishy, stuffed ourselves with Francesinhas (Porto’s famous sandwich smothered in cheese and topped with an egg), and found the best gelato in the world (awarded by my children). Jason and I ate electric flowers from the Amazon Rainforest that numbed our mouths and opened our taste buds. We all tried the jams and chocolates packaged in paint tubes. There were egg tart pastries everywhere. And low and behold, we found a pizza place so good that even Little Evey ate a slice!
The last couple days we had in Porto, you guessed it, we roamed even more. We found an fascinating photography museum hidden in an abandoned prison. We took the trolley to the beach to see the Atlantic Ocean. We looked for the best street art in the city. We counted how many Mario flower powers we could spot (we found 11 total). E loved being old enough to start learning how to use my camera. I took advantage and played his model to finally get a few photos of me in the mix and a couple of me and Jason as well. Turns out he has a knack for it!
Yes, we don’t typically spend this much time in one city. But because we did, I think we found a new way that we love to travel. The best memories we have of this trip aren’t from the top attractions you find when you google Porto. It’s the small moments. It’s the excitement in Little Evey’s eyes when he saw the trolley for the first time. It’s the laughter from E as we took turns spotting fun things in the shops. It’s the way Jason and I both would say, “This is the best one yet…” every time we ate a new Francesinhas. And most of it all, it’s the magic we felt in the air… that overwhelming feeling that we could only describe in one word… Marvelous.
Until next time,
